This year I changed
my travel plans a bit to be able to travel with
my good friend Analu Duponte. Analu is a great surfer,
waterman, and Jaws tow-in veteran and has been a
good friend for over twenty years. I normally travel
solo (less distractions from the waves and was forced
to meet new people) but being with Analu’s
on his first trip to Indonesia was something I wanted
to see (it can be a little overwhelming on your
first time into the jungles of Java). Analu was
a great travel partner and put up with all my hard-core
surf and relaxing with out a complaint. |
Day 1 –
Wednesday 9/8
Left with Chad, Chris and Bruce (grandpa) –
I guess I need to explain that these guys are
concrete artists and they did a job for me at
my home in Kahana – rather than paying
them they asked for a surf trip to G-land for
one week. They said that if they took home the
pay the wives would find better uses for the
money – so understanding this I gladly
agreed. We flew to Honolulu – Guam and
then on to Denpsar Bali. The total travel time
was about 20 hours – but we where so excited
that it felt like a blink of your eye (I slept
and read the whole time and the boys drank JD
most of the trip). We got picked up by my Indonesian
friend Alex and he took us to the G-land office
and I got the boys all checked in with Made.
They were off to camp on the bus (a 6 hour ride)
and I went back to the Malasti Beach Bungalow
hotel to wait for Analu to arrive the next night.
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Day 2 Friday
9/10
(lost a day
when we went over the date line)
Went back to the G-land office to arrange a
special boat to take us to Java from Bali (2
hours by boat or 6 hours by bus). I met Tim
from Kauai and after talking to him decided
that Analu needed a boat trip to Nusa Lombogin,
Lombok and Sumbawa on his first trip to Indo
to really get the feeling for the place –
I have done these trips many times and they
are always fun so I booked us on the Nusa Nusa
for a 7 day trip starting in a few weeks. I
went to lunch at ________________ it is right
on the beach in front of Kuta Reef and you can
see Middles and Airport Lefts – a perfect
spot to relax have some good food and watch
the surf – It was small – 2-3- foot
and had about 15 guys on it. I picked up Analu
from the airport with Alex at 9:30pm and went
back to the Malasti for dinner and beers. |
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Day 3 Saturday
9/11
Left Bali at 6 am for the 2-hour boat ride to
G-land – this is the first time I had
been by speedboat and was looking forward to
being there early. Arrived at 9 am and got set
up in camp – It was over booked so I took
a hut in the back – very marginal accommodations
but quiet. Surfed for 3 hours – the surf
was 3 to 5 foot (6 to 10 foot faces) and good
shape. Hooked up with Brooky from Australia
– had not seen him since he came and visited
me on Maui in 2002 – a word of caution
– if you invite an Australian to come
visit, be prepared because they will show up
the next year (it would be rude not to Brooky
says) Brooky is a great guy and is always welcome
at my house (even Suzy, my wife, is taken in
by his charm or is it bull shit!) Had dinner,
a few beers and an early night.
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Day 4 Sunday
9/12
Got up early and surfed for 2 ½ hours
with only about 10 guys in the water –
got lots of waves and it seemed a little bigger
than yesterday – surfed my new 6’6”
and it is working great – I put carbon
3 fins on it and they fly. Met two guys from
Cali – Mike and Papaya – and they
caught 2 – 20+ pound Spanish Mackerel
– great eating fish like Ono in Hawaii
– Skipped lunch and went back out for
a 3 ½ hour session – the waves
had gotten bigger 4 – 6 and it was going
off – low tide barreling – had a
few real long tube rides but didn’t come
out of any. Had sashimi with dinner and was
out by 8 pm.
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Day 5 Monday
9/13
Got up early and surfed with Ana’s and
Chris for almost 3 hours – waves were
lining up perfect 4 to 6 foot and I got a few
real screamers – my paddling arms are
starting to kick in and the stretching and light
yoga are really paying off – feeling strong!
Today is boat day so we lost 12 guys and gained
22 – over booked even worse so every one
had to move to accommodate the new guys. I stayed
put (advantage of being in the low rent district).
Went back out at 11 am and surfed 2 ½
hours – waves still good and I finally
came out of a huge tube ride! The only one that
saw it was a guy from Japan – he gave
me the big thumbs up – where’s the
photo guy when you need him? Walked out on the
reef to get some shots of Analu in the afternoon
– got a few then could not help myself
and ran back and grabbed my board and surfed
till dark – the waves where dropping fast
and there where a lot of Brazilians in the line
up. Found out that there was a photographer
in camp and he had his lap top out after dinner
and was showing what shots he had gotten the
past few days – found a few of me but
not the big tube ride. Had dinner and was out
cold by 8:30.
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Day 6 Tuesday
9/14
Got up early 5 am and checked the surf –
way down – 2 – 3 foot – so
I went fishing with Mike and Papaya (he is a
civil engineer from Palos Verdes and Mike is
a contractor from the same area) Marco’s
the Indo boat driver had been promoted –
last year it was Bushy driving the fishing boat
– now Bushy drives the speed boat from
Bali. Had a few strikes but nothing was sticking
- took a nice long cold water shower –
did some laundry – cleaned the hut and
went looking for toilet paper – Ananlu
got a massage from a lady in the G-spot camp
next door and said that she almost hurt him
and be ready if you have her rub you. Went for
a surf after lunch and even though it was small
4 to 6 foot faces the 6’6” worked
great and I had some nice long waves. Had a
few beers from the boys from Jungle camp Cory,
Greg and his son Ali and was in bed by 9.
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Day 7 Wednesday
9/15
Surfed early and got some great waves it came
up a bit to 4 to 5 foot (when I say how big
it is I judge from the back so it is double
on the face of the waves – just for those
of you that don’t know me) the 6’6”
was performing out of this world - went over
the falls on a big set and the fin hit me on
my thigh and I broke out the fin box (it’s
always the case that the best boards break too
soon) I took the board to Kiki – an Indo
guy that I have known for years that fixes boards
at the old Tiger camp - He learned from Camel
(west Australian surf hero and good friend)
how to do it right. Kiki said it would be done
by noon the next day. Read most of the day then
walked to the key hole for some fishing - 1
½ hour walk each way down the beach is
a good work out – Mike and Papaya came
with me. I caught a rockfish and a huge stick
fish but no Travellies – GT’s –
we could see them but they would not bite the
plugs. I brought both my fish back as they where
not that good eating and the thought of carrying
them back did not sound like fun. I had bought
extra beer in Bali before we came out on the
boat as in camp you get 4 beers per day and
if you are going to have a little party it is
nice to have some extra – The next day
Chad, Chris and grandpa Bruce were leaving back
to Bali for one more week so I put a few cases
of beer in the cooler and stayed up late with
the boys and a Kiwi named Jamison – gave
him my email address – and may have invited
him to come stay (I sure that if I did he will
be showing up this winter!) |
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Day 8 Thursday
9/16
Small kind hung over today – slept in
to 7:30 – Hung out at the hut and read
to 10:30 – got the 6’6” board
back from Kiki – he did a great job on
the repair- went out surfing at 1 pm and surfed
till 5 – 3 to 5 foot and real clean and
perfect – got lots of waves and the board
was ripping. Analu caught a nice size Travellie
off Kongs (the outside most surf break) and
we had it for dinner – today was CQ’s
(Charlie Quisnell’s) 55th birthday –
Charlie is a great friend of mine from Maui
and he and Eddie “I get um” showed
up in camp this morning. You could write a book
on Charlie’s life but lets just say he
has been there and is one of the few to make
it back and still rip at 55. The crew in camp
made Charlie a cake and a large glass of jungle
juice (Indonesian Arak liquor) Charlie has been
in the program for about 10 years so had to
pass on the jungle juice (thank god). On the
way back to the hut Brooky almost stepped on
an armadillo. Got a great sleep and learned
a good tip from Mike – put baby powder
in your bed on the hot nights. |
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Day 9 Friday
9/17
Surf came up 4 to 5 with some 6-foot sets –
went fishing on the boat with Mike and Papaya
early and hooked up a nice size Spanish mackerel.
Got it to the boat but it spit the hook. Surfed
from 1 to 5:30 on the 6’6” and got
some great waves – the board works perfect
but it is starting to look like it has been
through a war (getting beat up) and it has only
been in the water 10 times or less. It seems
a bit light on the glass job – hope it
survives the trip. Had a little hassle from
a guy from Aus – he dropped in on me then
gave me some attitude. After dinner Cory and
Gary came down from the Jungle camp and we met
up with Jungle Jim from Aus (had not seen him
in almost 10 years). He, Analu, Corry, Garry
and I went down to Jungle camp for a few beers
– as soon as we walked in camp the guy
with the attitude was there and apologized –
his name was Andrew. Ali and Analu got off on
the wrong foot and for a few minutes we had
some tension. Walked back to Bobbies camp and
Jim got out his harp and we played music until
midnight. |
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Day 10 Saturday
9/18
Slept in to 7:30 – surf came up 5 to 6
with a few larger sets – after breakfast
read for a few hours and then took out the peach
board – a new 7’6” that had
not been in the water. What a pleasure being
able to catch all the waves early – surfed
for 3 hours and caught most of the largest sets
that came in. Board was working perfect. Caught
a large walled up set and dodged the tube at
the end of the wave (never – never dodge
the tube!) and got axed by the lip big time
and the fin on the board cut my foot a good
one. It hit me so hard that it knocked out the
fin (a carbon 3 – so bummed to loose it)
and put a lot of blood in the water. I had Puma
(camp manager) look at it and he decided that
it would heal without stitches. (This cut ended
up not heeling for over 5 weeks) Brooky helped
me clean and dress it and did some energy healing
on it (he may be a wizard as well) and it feels
ok. I think I have a deep bruise as well. |
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Day 11 Sunday
9/19
New group came into camp – waves dropped
to 2 – 4 – still good – my
foot feels ok and surfed from 8 to 11 am and
again from 1 to 4 – road the 6’6”
and ripped it up. Played music with Will from
the G-spot camp – I had met him 5 years
earlier in Nusa Lumbogin. Got a massage from
a shell picker lady – very good –
Analu had one as well.
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Day 12 Monday
9/20
My eyes are really starting to go – I
don’t know if it is age, sun or what but
reading has become a problem with out good light.
The waves have gone down even more and I ended
up reading most of the day – no surf.
With the small waves I decided that we would
leave camp one day early and get back to Bali
for the boat trip and I have not seen Banger
yet (one of my best friends that I try and hook
up with every year) and am looking forward to
it. Jim had come in camp with a yank that lives
in Aus “Big Dog” super nice guy
and incredible fisherman – We ate sashimi
from a huge (50 lb) travellie that he had caught
then played music with Will on guitar, Mike
from Maui on drums, Jim on the harp and me on
bass – we got most of the camp singing
along and pounding on the tables – Cory,
Gary and Ali came up from Jungle camp. |
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Day 13 Tuesday
9/21
Took Fabio’s boat back to Bali (Fabio
is a very Cool Brazilian that lives in Bali
part of the year and has built his own hut in
Bobbies camp and has his own boat to get back
and forth – very cool) the trip took a
few hours with Analu and Brooky. Checked into
the Malasti and had our firt hot shower in a
few weeks. Went out to _______________ for sushi
with Banger, Brooky and Analu and it was great
and cheep! Early night. |
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Day 14 Wednesday
9/22
Waves came up so we headed to Benlongins and
caught it 4 to 6 foot with big long left tube
rides on a shallow inside reef. No pictures
but some great waves and mellow crowd. This
would be a nice spot to stay some day. Came
back to town and went to dinner at ________________
a great Italian spot with Chad, Chris and Bruce
(their last night). After dinner played music
with Banger. |
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Day 15 Thursday
9/23
Got up early for the boat trip and found out
that it had been delayed for one day. Surf had
gone down so I hung out by the pool and read
and slept most of the day. Went to lunch with
Ana’s at the seafood place on the beach
__________________ he had steak and I had lobster.
Had a nap then up to Bangers house for home
made Tortilla soup and back to the sushi place
for dinner (it was so good Analu had a dream
about it). Early night. |
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Day 16 Friday
9/24
Got picked up at noon – 3hrs
late – for the boat trip and drove to
Sinnor and to the boat to Nusa Lombogin –
surfed ship wreck till dark (first right we
had surfed and it felt good). It was 4 to 5
and a little on shore but still lots of fun.
Stayed the night in Lombogin. A total of 12
surfers on the boat and Ana’s and I have
almost 20 years on most of them. Most of the
guys are from Santa Cruz and two surf chicks
that live on Maui now but grew up in Santa Cruz
– three guys from San Diego that I saw
in G-land but did not meet. The boat Dusa Dusa
is full to the max. |
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Day 17 Saturday
9/25
Got to Lombok – desert point and it is
2 – 3 foot and just not really doing it.
I spend most of the day reading and watching
the surf hoping that it will come up. It never
did. We all decided that it was best to stay
and see what the morning would bring (desert
point is the best spot on the trip) and I busted
out my bottle of Johnny Walker Black that I
had been saving to drink up a swell. This seemed
like the perfect time to do it so we did. I
got the whole boat on it and we had some good
bonding time. |
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Day 18 Sunday
9/26
Got up early 6 am – hung to the gills
and the waves had come up to 4 to 5 foot and
perfect. We were the only boat and I was the
first one in the water. Surfed for 4 hours –
it was going off – lots of long tube rides
and got lots of sets. The food on the boat is
great – Left deserts for the 12 hour trip
to Sumbawa and read the day away and took it
very easy after last night. |
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Day 19 Monday
9//27
Woke up at Scar Reef in Sumbawa and the surf
looked small – when we got in last night
it seemed huge. The kids made the call to go
to Yoyo’s – a right one hour away.
We made the trip and went by a huge gold mine
owned by Americans in the middle on no place
– looked like something out of a James
Bond movie. The surf was huge at Yoyo’s
6 to 8 foot with some full clean up sets and
dumping hard on the reef. I took out my 7’
board for its first surf and got some of the
largest waves of the trip so far. Most of the
guys did not come out – they had very
small boards. We went back to the boat and found
out that scar reef had turned on and was going
off 6 to 8 foot as well. We rushed back and
got some great waves. Surfed for 2 more hours
and got some real sets – it was a little
on shore but very very good. I waited for the
evening glass off and it got sooooooooooo good
that I surfed like a mad man and tried to catch
every set. It was going off the scale and I
was like a kid in a candy store. I got some
of the best waves of the trip for sure. I had
been to scars twice before and never got it
even close to this size – the guys broke
7 boards this day and I think everyone had at
least one moment of fear. For almost 45 min.
We had a non-stop set that kept us taking off
on back-to-back waves. What a day –
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Day 20 Tuesday
9/28
During the night the surf got maxed out and
we where all sure that the next day was going
to be a hero session. It was full moon and we
sat on the deck and watched for hours. It looked
10 foot (three to four times over head) and
all I could think about was ridding the 7’6”
peach – not much sleep – Got up
in the morning and the surf had come way down
– two boats showed up and headed down
to Yoyo’s – we hung out and surfed
for a few hours then headed back to Dessert
Point and Lombok. Early night ran out of beer
by 7 pm. |
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Day 21 Wednesday
9/29
Waves small at Deserts – we waited for
the tide but the swell was just gone so we headed
back to lombogin. 2-hour trip. Surf was small
there as well so Dusa (boat owner) Analu, Winter
and I went to the Cock fights – Dusa won
big money on the first two fights but then the
police raided the fight and we all took off
running – Dusa was very happy and Indo
cock fights are very funny – lots of yelling
and waving. I never saw the police but ran with
the crowd. It was frickin hilarious. Had lunch
on shore with Zake and Winter. Nusa Lombogin
is a beautiful island with a few good quality
surf spots that I have been to 3 times before
– I have always loved it here because
it is so mellow and has very few cars. Very
very different from Bali. I will be back –
maybe bring the family and hang out for a few
weeks. We went and got some more beer for are
last night on the boat and had quite a party
with the crew – every one had a great
time and the Nusa Nusa is a very fun Indo boat.
Dusa’s dad came out (the real owner of
the boat) and we had a nice talk, he is just
a few years older than Ana’s and me and
had been running boats for years. After hanging
out with the kids and crew it was nice to talk
to an adult. – Slept out side under the
moon and stars – it was great.
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Day 22 Thursday
9/30
Waves still small so we headed back to Bali
– we had a big day ahead of us as Bangers
had it all planned out that we would drive to
Java this afternoon and spend the night in Bongiwongi.
We got back to the Malesti and got a room for
a few hours to clean up – had a great
shower and Banger and Brooky showed up and said
that we would be leaving for Java by 1 pm –
He had been pre cooking meals for a week and
he said that this is going to be the best food
he has ever taken to camp and for a guy that
goes in and out of camp 10 or 12 times per season
this really something – he is an incredible
chef. We got to the hotel in Bongiwongi at 7
pm and had an excellent Chinese meal and went
down early. |
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Day 23 Friday
10/1
Brooky woke us up at 5 am and we left the hotel
for the final part of the van ride to Gragingon
village and the boat trip to camp. When we got
to camp Katuk put us in a great hut this time
and I finally had a chance to organize my duffle
bag - being that I had been living out of it
for over 3 weeks it was a disaster. The surf
was very small and I found out that my 6’6”
had a buckle (almost broken in half) the last
time I had surfed it was at Desert point 5 days
ago and the last wave I had out there I went
straight over the falls on so I could have done
it then or it could have happened on the trip
back to camp. Kiki had gone back to Bali so
I had no one to fix it. Bangers made seared
Ahi for dinner with creamed zucchini and rice
potatoes – excellent – we played
music after dinner. Kiva, Tide, Jason and Emma
had come into camp from Maui and Charlie and
Eddie where leaving. |
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Day 24
Saturday 10/2
Small waves – I have never seen it so
small at G-land. Went for a long swim out
to the surf with Jim and Bali John (from Maui)
Jim set a grueling pace and my whole body
felt the burn – we caught a few waves
body surfing then swam in. Walked to the small
pass in the afternoon with Ana’s, Jim
and John – I have still not caught a
real fish this year – maybe it is just
my luck after last year killing it with Jeff.
Analu caught a nice fish and we had blackened
chicken burritos for dinner, played music
and had sashimi. |
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Day 25
Sunday 10/3
Still small but came up a little – went
trolling with Jim and Tim from Cali –
Jim had a nice fish on but lost it. He had
lost over 10 fish at this point in his trip.
I went out for a long surf with Jim and John
on the 6’6” (I thought I should
just let it break all the way and leave it)
It felt ok but it bent a little on the larger
waves – any real waves and it will be
all over for the board – oh well it
has had a good life. I bought a few lobsters
from the lobsterman and had them for pupu’s
then had Mediterranean soup and potato dumpling
with marinara sauce for dinner. Fabio and
Big dog had brought in steak and big duck
(turkey) that they bbq’ed and we had
some of that as well. We got the band together
and put together 8 songs that we could really
play and sing well – Bangers was complaining
that we needed dancing girls so big dog went
to the shell pickers camp and brought two
back, it was one of the funniest thing that
happened on the whole trip when he came walking
back in with these two young girls –
we all laughed for a long time. We all went
wild and played music till midnight –
rumors of a new swell tomorrow.
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Day 26
Monday 10/4
Surfs up! Went out for a marathon 6 hours
on my 7’ board and got some of the longest
tubes of the trip – at this point I
am surfing real well and can paddle for ever.
I was even coming out of most of the tubes
for a change. Got two double barrels and was
a very happy man. Had Tortilla soup with extra
chilies for dinner – missed breakfast
and lunch – trying to loose a few more
pounds now that the trip is winding down.
The word is that there is a huge swell coming
the day after we are going home and I am very
tempted to stay. Played music with 3 Kiwis
– very very nice guys – Tippy,
Anaru and Ricki along with Jim – had
a great time. |
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Day 27
Tuesday 10/5
Surfed twice got some great waves 4 –5
foot and lots of fun. Had fish tacos for dinner
with sashimi and went to bed early –
all the surf the last few days have caught
up with me.
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Day 28 Wednesday
10/6
Surf went down 3-5 foot surfed one long session
and then started to pack up my shit for the
long trip home tomorrow. Had a great dinner
of Indian Gau and played music with Banger,
Jim and the three Kiwis – had a great
time.
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Day 29 Thursday
10/7
Left camp at 5:30 am – small kind hang
over and took the boat to the village and then
the van back to Bali with Analu, Bangers, and
Brooky, Had beer and snacks on the way but slept
for the most part. Got to Kuta around 3 pm –
did some shopping, got cleaned up then went
out to dinner at the sushi place with Big Bog,
Jim, Bangers, Analu and Brooky. Had to rush
to the airport and almost missed the plane home.
Bangers has a theory on airports that has some
basis to it. If you show up real late they will
rush you through customs, forget to charge you
for your boards and maybe even up grade you
to business class if they do not have isle seats
available. Well it worked out close to perfect
except we did not get the upgrade. Had a long
trip home and slept most of the way. Got in
to Maui at 9 pm the next day and was picked
up by my beautiful wife Suzy and was tucked
into my own bed by 10pm by my two boys Ryan
and Jesse. |
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| It was a great trip and one that I will not soon
forget. Please let me know if you would like the names
and addresses of any of the restaurants or hotels
– I have been traveling a long time and like
to eat well! I have been home now for almost a month
and have just been so busy that I had not had time
to put the trip up on the site. The surf has been
great here at home and I am very happy to live in
a real paradise called Hawaii. There is no place like
home. I am fully back to work now so give me a call
or drop me an email and let me find you a piece of
Paradise as well. |
Aloha
Buz
Your Surfing Realtor |
